MOLD AND MILDEW


Since about 1990, mold has become a serious con- cern for homeowners. The news media present graphic stories of sick homeowners and homes that must be torn down because of mold contamination. In recent years that message has been reinforced by more and more stories. Some people are even concerned with the small black dots that may appear from time to time in caulk around the bathtub.
Is mold a real problem? Every homeowner needs to think through this issue relative to his or her own home. Mold has been around forever, but recently it has become a big issue. Why? Is it really an important issue?
Recent government and scientific studies have found that mold poses a threat to those who have breathing problems, allergies, or weakened immune systems.

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Last Updated (Wednesday, 29 December 2010 22:56)

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Prefer your home repairs on the easy side? So do I! Here is my latest information on new and better products that solve our common fix-it problems. These problem solvers can
tackle the nagging flaws you thought you had to live with, like ceiling cracks and bathroom mildew. Let’s take a peek at my favorites.
—Tom Feiza, Mr. Fix-It
The Mr. Fix-It Secret Window Washing Formula This is the best home brew for washing windows. Put it in a spray bottle and use it like a commercial window cleaner. It also makes a great spot-cleaner for many surfaces.
• 1/2 cup sudsy ammonia • 1 pint 70% isopropyl alcohol • 1 teaspoon dishwashing detergent • water • food coloring
Mix the first three ingredients. Add water to make one gal- lon. Add a few drops of food coloring. Store the mixture in a container marked DANGEROUS CHEMICAL.
GREAT PAINTING PRODUCTS
Where can you find these products? Visit a paint store that professional painting contractors use. A store like that always offers the best products and great advice.
Bin from Zinsser Co.
Bin is a primer/sealer and stain killer that solves many paint- ing problems. It will cover water stains, crayon marks, knots, and marker stains. It sticks to glossy surfaces and provides an excellent base for latex paint, preventing stain bleeding. It can even seal in smoke and pet stain smells. Since it is a white, pigmented shellac, it dries within 45 minutes and has little odor.
Perma-White Mold & Mildew-Proof Interior Paint from Zinsser Co. Perma-White solves the problem of mildew and peeling in bathrooms and damp areas. This one is a real winner. I have used it in several areas with great success. It works in bath- rooms and even on basement walls–wherever there are damp conditions and a potential for mildew.
Before using, you must kill the mildew. Then apply two coats of Perma-White. It is self-priming and cleans up with soap and water. It is guaranteed to be mildew-resistant. White semi-gloss is the standard formula, but it can be tinted.
Painter Quality Masking Tape – 3M, Trimaco Industries Don’t use cheap masking tape for your next paint project. Cheap tape either fails to stick or won’t come off afterward, and the paint still bleeds behind the tape. Use a “professional painter” masking tape designed with a special adhesive that sticks when you want it to yet can be released after painting. Long Mask and BluEdge products can be left in direct sun- light for up to seven days and still can be removed without worry about the tape welding to the surface.
When using masking tape, rub a fingernail or a knife next to the edge to seal it and prevent the paint from bleeding underneath. Also, before applying the tape, clean the sur- face to be protected.
Easy Mask Painting Tape from Trimaco Industries Easy Mask is my favorite masking product. This smooth, flat paper comes in different widths with an effective adhesive on one edge. It leaves a sharp paint edge, and paint will not seep through. The tape is easy to remove and does not leave a sticky residue. One inexpensive roll will mask several rooms.
Lightweight spackling compound from UGL or Red Devil Toss the old vinyl spackling compounds that sag, run, shrink and crack. Try the new generation of lightweight spackling compounds. They dry very quickly without shrinking. You can fill those holes just once and paint within minutes. By the way, do you know where spackling compound comes from? Just ask Tom.
Krack-Kote from TK Waterproof Coatings
Krack-Kote is a wall and ceiling crack repair material that remains pliable and permanent for interior plaster and dry- wall crack repair. The product is packaged in a kit with an applicator and a mesh tape for wider cracks. Krack-Kote has been the choice of professional painters for many years. Because the product remains flexible, it moves as wall or ceil- ing cracks open and close, thus preventing new cracking.

Last Updated (Wednesday, 29 December 2010 22:43)

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10 Ways To Keep Your Basement Dry

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  1. Drain tiles install on the exterior of the footing is the best method of relieving hydrostatic pressure against your foundation due to heavy rains.  The water flows away from the house through the tiles by gravity force.  Most new homes are built with this type of system.
  2. The second best method is to have drain tiles installed under the basement floor next to the footings.  The use of a sump pit and pump is used to remove the water through a drain line drilled through the foundation wall.  Make sure the drain line is long enough so the water flows away from the house.  I highly recommend that an alarm & back-up battery be installed with this type of system.  (Heavy rains are usually accompanied with high winds and lightning.)
  3. Make sure the grade around your foundation is sloped away from the house and all the downspouts have adequate extensions.
  4. Make sure the exterior side of the foundation is properly waterproofed.
  5. Provide waterproof covers for basement window wells.
  6. When you leave home for the weekend or longer, shutoff the main water supply valve for the house.  There are numerous fittings, valves, and fixtures that may be worn or have a defect.  This usually shows up when you are away from home for a few days or more.  In eight hours a 1/2 inch broken pipe can pump approximately 1440 gallons of water into you home.  The majority of it will end up in the basement.
  7. Make sure drain hoses for air conditioning condensation lines, water softeners, humidifiers are not clogged to prevent overflow from these systems.
  8. If you are going to finish an unfinished basement, make sure insulation is between a water line and the foundation wall.  If this is not possible, install small siding vents in the drywall so heat can still reach the water pipe.  Frozen water pipes usually burst providing a new wading pool where it is least desired.
  9. If you notice a stained ceiling in your finished basement, take it seriously by determining the cause as soon as possible.  It could very well be a pipe or plumbing fixture that is about to burst.
  10. Have older hot water heaters inspected for excess wear and rust.  A rusted out bottom of a hot water tank will put 40 - 50 gallons of unneeded water onto the floor of your basement in a short period of time.

Last Updated (Tuesday, 16 November 2010 03:58)